Joy Burger Bar

It's surprising that Joy Burger Bar hasn't received any formal reviews other than a short, shared blurb in the NYT, and that not recently (some things have objectively changed since that review). On the corner of 100th and Lexington, Joy is in an open, cafelike space, decorated primarily in international and classic Coca-Cola signs (a bit of a theme, as said beverage is available both in plastic and classic glass bottles, and eat-in orders are served in branded metal trays). Nearly all the food operations are in plain view (fryer, grill, and flattop right behind the register, cold prep (salads, shakes and smoothies), visible through an open door), which I always consider a good sign in a small, short-menu eatery. Similarly encouraging is the universal, in my experience, presence of the owner, who I've seen manning the register, assembling sandwiches, and just chatting up the clientele (many of whom he seems familiar with).

I've been five times (being drawn to it like flies every time I've find myself between 96th and 120th at mealtime since discovering it), and in my visits have tried each size of the burger (munch, midi, maxi (think slider, fast food, restaurant)), the veggie burger, the schnitzel sandwich, and nearly all the sides (all three types of fry and the onion rings), and the house-made drinks. Nothing was disappointing, but there's variation within the menu.

The burgers themselves are the best thing on the menu, and the maxi is, in my current estimation, the best burger in the city. Ground by the owner, cooked on grills both flaming and flattopped, the maxi burger is incredibly juicy without being inedibly messy, both beefy and flamey, and perfectly textured. This may sound hyperbolic, but the flavor is so strong that the burger is able to stand up to whatever toppings you may desire, including the housemade sauces, which are themselves strongly flavored, and easily capable of overwhelming a lesser burger (I like the chimichurri). The buns are well chosen and toasted alongside the patties (I suspect they've changed since the buns complained of in the NYT review). Sadly, "lesser burger" covers both the midi and munch burgers, very tasty in their own rights but both losing out on both texture and flavor due to their dimensions. Certainly tasty, but not in the same class as their big brother.

The fries (chip-sliced, standard-sliced, and sweet potato) are all hand-cut, fresh-fried to order, and delicious. The chip-sliced sometimes have texture problems but on the whole are better than the longer fries, and if eating in I would recommend them (they come with eat-in orders by default, but do not stand up to confinement, and the standard-style fries are provided with takeout or delivery), the longer fries are excellent themselves, of course. The sweet potato fries are good examples of the type, but I'm not a fan of the type to begin with. The onion rings were simply incredible, among the best I've ever had.

The burgers are obviously the main draw, but the other sandwiches are very good as well. The philly looked good, the shnitzel was very good, and the veggie burger (mashed-veggie style, a type I don't normally favor) was flavorful, well-textured, and while not actually meatlike at all, something I would order again purely on its own merits. The housemade lemonade and tea are too sweet for my taste, but the shakes are good, and almost undrinkably thick.

I like my food, but I'm not the type to repeat a single restaurant three times in a week, or walk a mile for a burger. I've done both for Joy Burger Bar. If you like burgers, go now. If you like veggie burgers, go now. If anything at all on their menu sounds like something you'd possibly eat, go now -- you'll like what you get.